Saoji Food from Central India
Many
of today’s popular dishes of Vidharbha, its quintessential cuisine, find their
roots in the peculiar lifestyle of the people inhabiting the land in antiquated
times. The cuisine was intrinsically linked to the habits, customs and mores of
the people who lived in what is called this Varhad region. Apropos, the
endemic gastronomic fare ahs come be known as Varadhi food. Although
over the centuries the local people’s lifestyle changed, many of these
gastronomic delights have not only survived, but have found a refreshing
resurgence in today’s cyber era.
The name
Varhad itself has sprung from the early ions of mythical lore. The great epics
like Ramayana. Rikvidhas and other of Indian culture have referred to this
region as Vardath and Varadh Berar. The region has always has a distinct
identity and has retained it till date, although Vidarbha does not enjoy the
status of a distinct separate state. Nestling the eastern part of Maharashtra, Vidarbha
consist of eleven district, Bhandara, Gadchiroli, Chandrapur, Wardha,
Yevatmal, Buldhana, Akola Amravati,
Gondia, Wasim and Nagpur.
From times immemorial farming has
been the main occupation of the region’s people. The important crops grown here
are Cotton, Jowar, Tur and Rice. In the antiquated days, only the male members
of the family were supposed to work of farms. While the men drove bullocks
carts and plowed the land, the ladies of the house were tied to their household
duties.
One of the most important of these
was cooking for the family. Unaware of the world and the happenings outside,
these womenfolk pottered around in their kitchens, talked about food, discussed
and passed on various dishes to others and experimental with innumerable
varieties.
At the same time, although a sizable
population of the region was in involved in farming, other communities
preferred different vocations like spinning and yarning. Almost these, a
separate community called “Saoji” emerged, a community with distinct
business and gastronomic tastes. Their cuisine peppered with liberal does of
chilies and chilly powder, became very popular in the region. Over the
centuries, “Saoji” food has not only retained its sting and popularity,
but has found a resurgence and wide spread appeal. Nary a suburb in Nagpur city without a “Saoji”
joint is the eloquent testimonial to this fact.
Here I take great pleasure in
presenting some of these very original Vidarbha and Saoji food recipes.
Saoji Rassa (Gravy)
Ingredients:- paste of onion 200 gms,
liquid of ginger-garlic 1 katori, red chilli 8-10, aniseeds 1 t spoon, cardamom
(black) 4-5, cloves 2 t spoons, mace powder 1 t spoon, black pepper 2 t spoons,
caraway seeds 2 t spoons, coriander seeds 5 t spoons, poppy seeds ¼ katori,
jawar flour 5 t spoons, ground nut oil ½ katori, coconut oil ½ katori, chilli
powder 2 t spoons, bay leave 4-5, turmeric 1 t spoons, salt as per the taste.
Procedure:- roast all the spices except
onion and garlic, till they turn bit dark, soak in hot water. Boil it in water
for 10 minutes; make a paste out of it. Heat pan, add oil, then liquid of
ginger-garlic. After it is cooked add onion paste, grinded masala & bay
leaves. Add little water, boil it till oil gets separates. Add turmeric, chilli
powder and coconut oil. Decorate it with chopped coriander.
Note:-Mix jowar flour in water, add it
in the end.
Add/mix 1 katori
water to the paste of garlic, strain out the water.
Mutton Curry with Savaji Rassa (Gravy)
Ingredients:- Fresh red meat 1 kg,
Savaji gravy 4 katories, paste of ginger-garlic-coriander-green chilli 4 t
spoons, curds (sour) 2 katories, khada masala 1 t spoons, kasoori methi 1 t
spoon, coriander seeds 1 t spoons.
Procedure:- Marinate, thoroughly
cleaned red meat with paste of all spices, green chilli & curds for 1 ½ to
2 hours. Cook it without adding extra water. Add Savaji gravy, then kasoori
methi. Allow it to cook for 5-7 minutes. Add chopped coriander to it, serve it
hot.
Susan
Procedure:- Make a hard dough of 1 kg
refined wheat flour. Wash it under running water after 10 minutes. The starch
will be washed away because of this. The remaining substance is called ‘gluten’
It will be approximately 200 to 250 gms. This does not dissolve in water. Boil
some with little salt in it. Cook this substance in it for about 5-7 minutes.
Drain out water & cut it into pieces, it is called ‘susan’ (It can be
stored in refrigerator for 5-6 days) Add 2 katories of savaji gravy in 200 gm
Susan. Heat it. You may fry ‘Susan’ before adding the gravy. Put chopped
coriander leaves & serve it hot, here are have some more preparation in Savaji
style.
Dal Kanda
This dish is a
traditional dish, which is prepared on the previous night of wedding in Savaji
community.
Ingredients:- Soaked chana dal 2
katories, Finely chopped onion 2 katories, poppy seeds (roasted grinded) 2 t
spoons, ginger-garlic paste 4 t spoons, cumin seeds, coriander seeds powder 2 t
spoons, kala masala (vidarbha style) 1 t spoon, green chilli (pounded) 1 t
spoon, chilli powder-turmeric-salt as per the taste, mustard seeds &
asafoetida for tempering
Procedure:- soak chana dal for 2-3
hours. Heat oil, temper it with mustard seeds, asafoetida, pounded green
chilli, garlic. Add onion, sauté it well. Add soaked chana dal, salt & some
water. Cook it till dal gets tender (do not till it gets mashed.) Gradually add
cumin seeds, coriander seeds powder, poppy seeds powder, turmeric powder,
chilli powder & ginger. Add little water & sauté it, Lastly add garam
masala, chopped coriander, serve it with lambi roti or bhakri.
Note:-In this dish we have more oil
& chilli powder than the other dishes.
Lambi Roti –
this is very common in Vidarbha. Take dough of wheat flour, thump it again
& again to have gluten formed in it, then shape it in chapatti with hands,
roast it on the earthen pot this is kept upside down.
Gavara Teekha (spicy cluster beans)
This is a
different, but extra hot/spicy dish. Beans are not cut, but kept as it is.
Usually people make faces when dish of cluster beans is served, but this dish
you all will relish.
Ingredients:- Cluster beans 200 gms
(remove the thread), finely chppoed onion 1 katori, ginger-garlic paste 2 t
spoons, cumin seeds 1 t spoon, coriander seeds powder 1 t spoon, turmeric-cilly
powder as per the taste, garam masala 1 t spoon, salt as per the taste, roasted
& grinded poppy seeds 2 t spoons, roasted & grinded groundnut 2 t
spoons, mustard seeds 1 t spoon, asafoetida ½ t spoon, oil ½ katori
Procedure:- heat some water in a pan,
add turmeric powder, salt & boil cluster beans along with it. Heat oil
temper it with mustard seeds, add garlic, onion sauté it thoroughly. Add
turmeric powder, cumin seeds, coriander seeds powder, ginger, little water
& salt as per the taste. Add the pods, garam masala, coriander to it. Serve
it with hot bhakri.
Khaskhashichi Bhaji (Poppy seeds Bhaji)
Ingredients:- Soaked poppy seeds 2 katories,
grated onion ½ katori, turmeric powder as per the taste, chilli powder as per
the taste asafoetida ½ t spoon, oil 4 t spoons, coriander 1 t spoon, cloves
2-3, cumin seed 1 t spoon, coriander seeds powder 1 t spoon, bay leaves 2-3,
kala masala (vidarbha style) ½ t spoon
Procedure:- Heat oil in pan. Add clove,
bay leaves to it. Then add garlic paste, grated onion, sauté it. Make a paste
of soaked poppy seeds. Add it to the onion, when it turns golden brown cook it,
till oil separates. Add the remaining spices, ginger, salt as per the taste and
little water. Saute it for a while. Serve it with chapatti. This dish is of
different taste.
Varhadi Rassa or Gravy
The north-east
past of Maharashtra belonged to central
province. Area from Buldhana district to Bhandara district (total 8 districts)
is known as Varhad or Vidarbha. This province is famous for spicy &
sumptuous food. The dishes prepared here, have more oil & chilli powder.
People use groundnut oil or linseed oil for cooking. I am going to give you
some dishes prepared suing this gravy, before that let’s see how to make gravy
first.
Ingredients:- Ginger-garlic paste ½
katori, paste of raw onion 1 katori, paste of green chilli 4-5 t spoons,
tamarind pulp ½ katori, jaggery as per the taste, roasted dry coconut ½ katori,
roasted poppy seeds ¼ katori, roasted sesame ½ katori, fenugreek seeds 1 t
spoon, turmeric powder ½ t spoon, chilli powder as per the taste. Powder of
roasted coriander seeds 5 t spoons, cumin seeds powder 5 t spoons, garam masala
2 t spoons, bay leave 4-5 asafoetida ½ t spoon, oil 1 katori.
Procedure:- Heat oil in a pan. Add
mustard seeds, garlic, and onion paste. Sauté it till it turns golden brown.
Add some water then bay leaves & remaining ingredient. Sauté it, add
appropriate quantity of water to the masala, sauté it till oil separates. Add
chilli powder, turmeric powder, ginger, jaggery & salt as per the taste.
Kohlyachi (white pumpkin) gakhar Bhaji
Ingredients:- Ash gourd ½ kg, coriander
½ katori, varhadi gravy 2 katories, garam masala 1 t spoon, salt as per the
taste, mustard seeds 1 t spoon, asafoetida ¼ t spoon, oil for tempering, curry
leaves, roasted piyal 5 t spoons
Procedure:- Chop white pumpkin along
with its skin. Heat oil in a pan. Temper with mustard seeds, asafoetida, add
pieces of white pumpkin, curry leaves & salt as per the taste. Add varhadi
gravy & piyal. Cook it on a low flame. Add garam masala. Allow to get it
cooked with steam. Add chopped coriander. Serve it with hot chapatti
Note:-the vegetable used is basically a
mild one so make this dish little spicy.
Masalyachi Wangi (Masala Brinjal)
Ingredients:- Brinjals ½ kg, salt as
per the taste, turmeric powder ¼ t spoons, oil 1 t spoon, varhadi rassa 2
katories,
Procedure:- Cut two brinjals in the
centre & dip in the water in which turmeric powder and salt is mixed. Take
Varhadi rassa in a pan, add the brinjals & salt as per the taste let it get
cooked. Serve it with hot phulkas.
Patal (Liquid) Bhaji in Varhadi Style
In this
preparation mainly spinach is used at with the combination of fenugreek or
colocassia & Aambat Chuka. This is a preparation with a different taste
than the other taste.
Ingredients:- Spinach (finely chopped)
2 katories, fenugreek or colocassia ½ katori, Aambat chukka ½ katori, slice of
radish ½ katori, green chilli (chopped) 2 t spoons, ginger-garlic paste 2 t
spoons, turmeric powder-chilli powder as per the taste, fenugreek seeds ½ t
spoon, dry coconut slices 2/3 t spoon, soaked ground nut 2 t spoons, soaked
chana dal ½ katori, asafoetida ½ t spoon, cumin seeds powder 1 t spoon,
coriander seeds powder 1 t spoon, chana dal flour ½ katori
Procedure:- cook ground nut & chana
dal together in a pan. Heat some oil, add mustard seeds, asafoetida, garlic
cooked ground nut and chana dal, curry leaves, coconut 7 radish slices,
turmeric powder, chilli powder, fenugreek seeds. Sauté it well. Add chopped
spinach and fenugreen, sauté it thoroughly. Add water as per the requirement,
allow it boil for a while add paste of chana dal flour to thicken the dish. Add
salt, tamarind pulp, jaggery as per the taste, boil it. Heat the remaining oil,
temper it with mustard seeds, asafoetida & finely chopped garlic. Pour/add
this to the prepared dish, before serving.
Patodi Rassa
Patodi is known
as ‘patwadi’. This dish I tasted first in the area of Yevtmal, later I realized
that this rassa is prepared all over Vidarbha. This rassa is very easy to
prepare, but if it is extra hot & spicy, it tastes great!
Ingredients:- Varhadi gravy 2 katories
(we are not going to use tamarind pulp & jaggery in this rassa. This rassa
tastes good in savaji gravy also), chana dal flour 1 katori, grated dry coconut
2 t spoons, turmeric powder ½ t spoon, chilli & salt as per the taste, oil
2 t spoons, mustard seeds 1 t spoon, asafoetida ¼ t spoon.
Procedure:- heat some oil, temper it
with mustard seeds, add asafoetida, turmeric powder, chilli powder, salt &
1 katori water. Add besan (chana dal flour), keep stirring the mixture. Cook it
well. As it thickens a little, add coriander to it. Pour it in a tray, spread
layer of the grated coconut all over the tray. Cut into pieces, once it is
cooled down. While serving it add little water & salt as per the taste in
Varhadi rassa, now add ready Patodi to it, get it boiled.
Lavat
This
dish is prepared in a unique way to go with it’s unique name. usually it is
prepared in winter season, as ‘Seeds’ from fresh pods of Tur dal are used.
Ingredients:- paste of fresh pods of
tur dal 1 katori, turmeric powder-chilli powder as per the taste oil 4 t
spoons, cumin seeds powder 1 t spoon, coriander seeds powder 1 t spoon,
ginger-garlic paste 2 t spoons, roasted- grinded poppy seeds 2 t spoons,
mustard seeds 1 t spoon, asafoetida ¼ t spoon, salt as per the taste
Procedure:- heat oil in pan, temper it
with mustard seeds, add asafoetida, 1 t spoon, ginger-garlic paste, sauté it.
Add finely chopped onion (1 katori). As the onion turns golden, add cumin
seeds, coriander seeds powder, turmeric powder, salt, roasted powder poppy
seeds. Sauté it, add 2 glasses of water, bring it to boil/ Add salt as per the
taste.
Add 1 t spoon ginger-garlic paste in
the paste of tur seeds of fresh tur pods. Add salt as per the taste, 1 t spoon,
finely chopped coriander mix it well. Make small balls out of this mixture and
add them into the boiling water (all the masalas are mixed in the water) Allow
it to cook for 8-10 minutes. Decorate with coriander serve it with chapatti.
Varhadi Tiger Prawns
Ingredients:- Tiger prawns with shell
(from river water) 15-20, garam masala 2 t spoons, varhadi rassa 1 t spoon,
tamarind pulp 4 t spoons, turmeric powder ½ t spoon, salt as per the taste.
Procedure:- Clean the tiger prawns.
Apply turmeric powder, tamarind pulp & salt to it. Keep it for half an
hour. Drain out the water. Add varhadi gravy & cook it. Add garam masala.
Garnish it with coriander before serving.
Note:-tiger prawns with shell or
without the shell can be used to prepare this dish.
Stuffed tender guard
This is
basically from Vidarbha, its a heavy dish but it tastes delicious.
Ingredients:- tender ash guard (small
size) of 3-4 cm diameter approximately, khoa ½ katori, roasted-powdered poppy
seeds 1 t spoon, ginger-garlic paste 3 t spoons, green chilli paste as per the
taste, cashew nut pieces 4-5. raisins 4-5, lemon juice 2 t spoons, salt-sugar
as per the taste, oil for frying, paste of raw onion 1 katori,
coriander-ginger-fresh coriander (grated) 1 katori
Procedure:- cut the tender ash guard
gently. Scoop out the kernel. Apply salt, lemon juice from inside. Mix fresh
coconut, ginger] garlic, green chilli, cashew nut, raisins, khoa, salt, sugar
together. Stuff the tender coconut with this masala. Seal it with dough. Keep
such stuffed tender ash guard and a lid to fit it properly, ready. You may use
a tooth pick to fix the lid. Heat oil, add onion paste & coriander powder
to it. Fry these stuffed ash guard on a low flame, place it on sieve to drain
out oil.